Our automatic wax injector is a better hand operated wax injector because it is easier and faster to operate than all of the others I have found available through current jewelry suppliers. Other hand operated injectors need one hand to operate the injector and a mold clamp must be used to hold the mold closed because the mold can not be held properly with only one hand. Mold clamps are slow and awkward to use and only come in a couple of sizes. With our automatic injector the mold is held between two metal plates ( see images No2 and No4 ) and then placed on the injector nozzle and pushed down in one easy motion. This makes it easy to change molds faster and with different sizes of metal plates many sizes of molds can be injected one after the other. As you push the mold down with a little practice you will feel the wax fill the mold because the injector nozzle will go down and when the mold is full the downward motion stops and you know the mold is full. You hold for a few seconds ( Dwell ) before removing the mold from the nozzle. Set it aside while the wax cools and inject another mold. I usually work 20 to 25 molds at a time. I know a little history of its design and development from about 50 years ago.
The wax injector when out of the wax pot looks like this.
It is made out of brass and will last a long time. All the pumping parts fit closely together and there are no o-ring gaskets to wear out or crack. It stands up by its self and is not screwed or bolted to the wax pot. It can be removed from the wax pot by pulling it up out of the wax pot with pliers or a rag by the bottom section while the wax is hot ( CARE MUST BE USED TO NOT BEND THE INJECTOR TUBES ). The injector is made to come apart for cleaning if it gets plugged or you if you need to change injection wax and want to clean it out so as not to mix both waxes. Springs and steel balls control the wax pumping and are easly removed for cleaning while the wax is hot and liquid.
(DO NOT USE PLIERS ON THE UPPER TUBE SECTION. IF IT IS GOUGED OR BENT IN ANY WAY YOUR INJECTOR WILL NOT WORK PROPERLY)
When you first put the injector in the wax pot it is cold and will need to get as hot as the wax before it will pump wax. My best wax temperature for the wax I use is kept at 165 degrees most of the time. Your wax pot should have an ajustable thermostat for best control of wax temperature. Some molds need the temperature a little hotter and others need it colder. Trial and error on your molds is the best answer
Image No 5--
Wax injector in wax pot.
When the nozzle is pushed down the wax is automaticly pumped up into the mold. The melted wax level needs to be almost up to the top of the bottom section of the injector in order to keep the top section of the injector tube hot enought to keep the wax melted and ready for injecting.
Image No 4--
The mold shown with metal plates.
Any metal will work but I prefer stainless steel because it is stiff and straight with smooth surfaces and will not rust. A selection of sizes of plates for different sizes of molds will be a great help while you are injecting defferent size molds.
Image No 2--
The mold shown being injected.
Both hands can be used to hold the mold using the metal plates to hold the mold evenly closed and the fingers can be used to put extra pressure on the sides and the top of the mold as needed. Both hands are pressed down while holding the mold as shown when the mold is full it will stop going down.